When we think of anchors, often associations draw us to images of the glistening Adriatic sea or sailors. But the anchor symbolises so much more than that: to grip or to hold. The anchor is more than just nautical references. It is about holding fast; in the tumult of the ocean, it keeps us where we belong.
Anchors have been incorporated into jewellery for centuries, with some designers choosing to use the shape to replicate, to an extent, the basic function of the anchor. Other designers have simply used the shape and elected to embellish it with gemstones, as well as other elements, including ropes, hearts and other nautical or imperial iconography.
Anchors have a special place in our folklore and symbolism, which is why they are so prolific in design today. In very recent history, Anchor tattoos become popular amongst hipsters. Young people, most of whom have never served at sea, are for some reason drawn to this intrinsically functional object.
One of the main reasons anchors are such an enduring symbol and are so prevalent, is their association with Christianity, the dominant religion in Europe for centuries. To Christians the anchor symbolises hope, stability, steadfastness, and they even get a shoutout in the new testament (Hebrews, 6:19).
To learn more about anchors you can read our piece on anchors’ function and symbolism.
Many of the anchor jewellery items we see today have been adapted from brooches or pins into pieces that can be worn more regularly, such as pendants and rings. Some have kept their original mechanism, allowing them to function as both a brooch and pendant, whereas others have had these dual aspects removed.
Here we take a look at items of anchor jewellery, past and present.
Victorian anchor jewellery
Rings, brooches, and pins from the Victorian era feature anchors heavily, and this is for a number of reasons. Firstly, as the wealth created by the industrial revolution and extracted from the empire flowed into the country, the amount of jewellery being commissioned grew. Before this time it was only the extremely wealthy who could afford luxuries like fine jewellery and gemstones. This accounts for the increase in jewellery, but where do anchors come in?
Well, the Victorian era was a deeply religious time with an intense interest in symbolism and iconography. The anchor, with its aforementioned links to Christianity as a symbol of hope, was used frequently in art, memorials, and was a highly visible symbol in public life generally.
Additionally, shipping was one of the most important industries at the time. As this was a time before air travel, goods and wealth flowed into and out of all nations by sea and, as Britain was the primary naval power at the time, the nation’s prowess was a big part of national pride at the time. Not only that, but during the Victorian era, the British empire was at its height, using its naval might to command its empire and import goods from its colonies. Considering the above, it’s no surprise that the anchor became a symbol deeply pervasive through the cultural and national life of Victorians, leading it to be reproduced in jewellery.
Anchor Jewellery at auction
Many a famous jewellery house have depicted anchors over the years and these pieces often turn up at auctions, giving us a chance to view and reflect on how the anchor has been interpreted through time.
The choice of gemstones, other design elements, and choices can be used to inform us about the origins of certain pieces that lack any other form of identification, such as a hallmark or signature. This is incredibly helpful in aiding us in identifying trends of certain periods.
Diamond set anchor jewellery
Some of the most extravagant examples of anchor jewellery are set with diamonds, and there is a surprising variety of diamond shapes and setting styles within this genre.
This large Victorian old cut diamond brooch or pendant contains approximately 4cts of diamonds. The largest individual stones are pear, oval, and marquise-shaped, with small, grain set, old round cuts filling in the gaps.
Silver anchor jewellery
Used extensively in fine jewellery until the mid to late 20th century, silver's lower cost and light weight, in comparison to gold, means you can find plenty of examples of silver anchor jewellery from the past. These items can often be larger in size. This WW1 period HMS diamond Antique victorian oversized brooch has been hand chased on the stock, shank, and arms. There is also a thin, relative to the overall size of the piece, silver rope wrapped around the anchor.
The original HMS Diamond was completed in 1905 and was one of four third-class cruisers of the ‘gem class’. Built by the Laird company in Birkenhead, the ship saw actions in WW1 as part of the third, fifth, and sixth battle squadron.
Oversize
Anchor rings
One of the oldest examples of anchors depicted in jewellery that we have been able to find is this Roman ring with galley and anchor, which is made from bronze with engraving. Certificated as being from somewhere between the first and fourth centuries, this is a great example of how consistently people have attached meaning to anchors.
This more contemporary example an, Antique sterling silver anchor ring, Birmingham hallmark 1898 was clearly a well-loved piece, as it shows signs of wear and tear consistent with continuous wear. Interestingly, as the piece was hallmarked in Birmingham, an anchor features in the hallmark.
Victorian Silver Anchor ring
Another example of a pin that has been adapted, this time into a ring, is this Anchor ring with pear shaped diamond. The central pear cut diamond is 0.55cts, set into oxidized silver mounted on gold, that dates to around 1870.
A somewhat more abstract yet still recognisable representation is this vintage gold anchor ring with coral and lapis, signed Fred of Paris. Circa 1970, the shank of this ring is a heavy twisted rope, which also makes up the shank of the anchor.
French fashion house Hermes first introduced jewellery to their range in the 1950s, and have since produced many collections. A consistent theme in their jewellery has been the anchor chain, similar to a mariner chain, and they have sometimes depicted anchors on jewellery items, silk scarves, and silver wear. This yellow gold anchor band ring is hallmarked 18ct yellow gold, with a slanted 18ct white gold anchor attached.
Anchor Pendants
Lockets, items of jewellery that normally hang from a chain around the neck and are able to contain portraits, photographs, and sometimes hair, are popular still today, though were even more so in the past. This Victorian era anchor locket features an anchor on its front with engraving on the back. Whilst we don't know the story behind this 19th century piece, it's not hard to imagine that it could have been owned by the close relative of a sailor, who kept an image of their cognate or lover close to them while they were at sea. A life at sea can be a treacherous one, so the anchor as a symbol of hope and safety may have provided some comfort.
Another example of a locket featuring anchors, as well as depicting the Russian imperial crown, in this case set with pear cut rubies and diamonds. Jewelled gold and enamel jeton locket. The crown is set with two faux downward-facing pear cut rubies above a row of white diamonds and the locket features the Imperial Sceptre and the Ruman number X below two crossed and anchors.
A combination of symbols, this gold anchor and heart pendant set with pearls, diamonds and ruby is reminiscent of the mixture of symbols often found on headstones that feature anchors.
The symbol of the anchor has associations with Christianity, which is part of the reason it has been such an enduring symbol. Nowhere is this better represented than this Victorian enamel & diamond anchor watch pendant, where a diamond set anchor crosses a diamond set cross on a blue enamel background.
Often, coloured gemstones are paired with diamonds, and this is the case with this emerald and rose cut diamond anchor pendant seen above, where a 0.55ct pear cut emerald sits at the base, surrounded by old cut diamonds in a silver setting backed by gold. Made in Vienna sometime from 1867 and 1922, this unique piece started life as a brooch and at some point was adapted to be pendant.
One of the most celebrated names in jewellery, Parisian jeweller Van Cleef and Arpels, created this yellow gold anchor pendant set with diamonds across the stock: Van Cleef and Arpels yellow gold and diamond anchor pendant
Fouled Anchor Jewellery
A common feature of anchor jewellery is a rope wrapped around the shank, known as a ‘fouled’ anchor. There are several historical reasons why fouled anchors are so prevalent in naval insignia today, with most agreeing that it can be traced back to Lord Howard of Effingham, who was Lord Admiral at the time of the Armada. Lord Howard used the symbol as his personal seal and it was transferred to the office of state instead of the person at that time.
There is, though, no clear consensus as to why Lord Howard chose a fouled anchor initially. A fouled anchor can be a major headache for sailors, as it is when an anchor’s cable twists around the stock, so it is speculated that this could be a nod to the trials and tribulations a sailor faces whilst at sea.
From a jewellery designer's point of view, the fouled anchor gives the chance to add to the basic form of the anchor, often with a rope made from twisted wire.
A unique feature of this 1870 diamond anchor brooch is the imaginative use of diamonds in the rope, as well as the stock, shank, and arms. As far as our research shows, this is unique for the period, though more contemporary examples exist.
Anchor cufflinks
Hallmarked in London in 1971 and made by notable designer Andrew Grima, these 18ct Gold Grima cufflinks use a slightly reduced version of the anchor (there is no stock) and are mounted on sprung bar fittings. Interest in work by Grima has been building over the last 10 years and pieces by the designer, known for working in gold and prolific use of texture, are always popular.
Italian born and Geneve based contemporary fine jeweller, Michele Della Valle, used the form of the anchor alongside the bow of a ship in this diamond set dress set: Michele della Valle diamond dress set
More examples of diamond set cufflinks include this pair of 18ct gold, platinum, and diamond cufflinks, set with baguette, square, and triangle-shaped diamonds.
Anchor cufflinks with removeable stock
Anchor pins and brooches
Pins and brooches offer rich pickings when it comes to anchor jewellery, and the lack of interaction with the body, unlike a cufflink, gives designers the freedom to make a piece without having to worry about how it's going to fit onto or around a certain body part.
Often only worn to formal occasions, the number of opportunities to wear these items can be few and far between, which is why many have been adapted over the years into rings and mostly pendants.
Viktor Arne diamond and gold anchor brooch
Johan Victor Aarne (1863-1934) was a Finnish-Russian goldsmith, who is best known for his work at Fabergé, where he worked until 1904. This gold and diamond brooch features an anchor mounted on the imperial Russian crown and the Cypher of Nicholoas ||.
Whilst we have been unable to find any information about where this Victorian demantoid garnet anchor bar pin was made, the assumption would be that it is of Russian origin. Demantoid garnets were discovered there in the early 19th century and were used almost exclusively by Russian jewellers, including the legendary Fabergé, for some time.
The vibrant green stones are consistent with the quality of demantoid garnets found in Russia at the time, and the quality of the setting, as well the details such as the rope, suggest this piece was made in a workshop of some repute.
Peridots are another bright green gemstone, and they adorn this 14k gold anchor pin set with peridots. The flukes at the ends of the arms are highly stylised, as is the case with many depictions of anchors, being somewhat pointed and gothic looking as well as being rotated to be aligned with the shank and arms.
A unique example of gemstone carving is this antique chalcedony anchor seal mounted in gold and believed to date to the 1800s. Chalcedony is a variety of quartz and is often blue, though can come in a range of colours.
Another example of the imaginative way jewellers can incorporate the different shapes and cuts of gemstones into anchor designs is this antique 1.25ct old cut diamond and sapphire anchor jabot pin brooch. It is set with pointed cabochon (sometimes known as ‘bullets’) blue sapphires at the base and on the ends of the arms and oblong cabochons across the stock. Made in England in the mid 19th century, the piece also features 1.25ct of diamonds mounted in gold. The clever use of gemstones and the quality of the craftsmanship sets this piece apart.
An interesting combination of nautical iconography, this yellow gold anchor and trident brooch is set with diamonds and is unusual, in that it depicts a more modern stock, (the part of the anchor at the top that is perpendicular to the arms), as opposed to the classic wooden stock. This stock is also set with diamonds.
Modern anchor Jewellery
As we’ve mentioned, the anchor has found a new lease on life amongst a new generation intrigued by the symbolism and meaning attached to objects, and you can find plenty of anchors in current jewellery collections.
Tiffany’s long-running and popular charm series features this yellow gold anchor charm reflecting the current trend for yellow gold jewellery.
Tiffany yellow gold anchor charm
Sylva & Cie diamond heart pendant with sapphire anchor .
The anchor has also found its home outside of fine jewellery, especially in the 2010s when Paul Hewitt’s iconic PHREP anchor bracelet gained popularity. The bracelet is unisex, featuring a metal anchor hooked to the leather cord that wraps around the wrist, symbolising the anchor’s ability to keep one in the place the want to stay.
Anchor art and objects
It's not just jewellers who have taken the instantly recognisable form of anchors and applied their artistic touch.
