Hidden halo rings add some extra sparkle under the hood. Visible from the side rather than the top, this modern engagement ring trend suits some diamond shapes better than others. If you love oval-shaped diamonds, then the good news is these brilliant, elegant, not to mention great value stones certainly fit into the ‘well-suited’ category.
No doubt, if you’ve spent any time looking at engagement rings you’ve heard of halo rings, which have become very popular over the past few years.
After all, who doesn’t love a diamond encircled by more diamonds? Halos create a unique look distinct from a solitaire and add more sparkle to your ring. But, true to its name, the hidden halo ring is not so well known, despite having been predicted to be one of the popular 2021 styles for engagement rings. This lesser-known version of the halo ring is a stunning alternative style and pairs beautifully with oval cut diamonds. They can be bought off the shelf or made to order by bespoke jewellers.
What is a Hidden Halo?
A hidden halo ring is a type of engagement ring setting where the actual halo sits beneath the centre stone. This differs from the traditional halo ring, which has diamonds encircling the stone, visible from above. The hidden halo ring creates the effect of keeping the centre stone visible when viewed from atop, but adds an extra sparkle when viewed from the side. This means its the perfect ring for someone who wants a bit of extra detail without detracting too much attention from the beauty of the centre stone. It’s important to note that the hidden halo ring is also sometimes referred to as an under-halo ring.
To learn more about the different halo styles click here
Benefits of a Hidden Halo Ring
Here we come to the age-old question: do halos make the centre diamond look larger? With a hidden halo ring, the additional lift from the halo beneath the centre diamond will make, say, oval 1ct diamond rings, appear as if they have more depth.
We think ovals look particularly beautiful with this style of ring, but, unlike with some other types of settings, the hidden halo ring perfectly fits with any shaped diamond, be it marquise, baguette, or oval.
If, like us, you sometimes struggle to make a final decision, the hidden halo ring may be for you. Mixed metals work perfectly with hidden halo rings, as you might have a yellow gold oval diamond engagement ring paired with a halo set in platinum or rose gold.
Oval Shaped Diamonds
While a hidden halo ring can be made with any cut of stone at its centre, we have a personal preference for oval 1ct diamond rings. Oval 1ct diamond rings have the mixed benefit of an elegant and slimming cut, as well as a carat weight that is relatively affordable. As their name suggests, oval cut diamonds are symmetrical, elongated rounded shapes, that have no less brilliance than a round-brilliant diamond.
So why choose an oval diamond? With an increased surface area on the top of the stone, an oval diamond optimises carat weight, meaning less rough wastage. This means that the oval diamond often appears larger from above than a round-brilliant diamond of the same carat weight. A wise and economical choice, no doubt.
The elongated shape of the diamond is also known to flatter the wearer by giving the finger a longer and slimmer appearance. If you’re looking for elegance, this stone has it.
Oval diamonds can be found at varying ratios (length divided by width) from 1.3 to 1.6, with the most popular being between 1.3 and 1.45. This simply means that a stone with a higher ratio will be a longer, slimmer gemstone. The ideal ratio, however, is totally a matter of personal preference. A larger ratio will give a narrow, long oval shape, increasing the slimming and elongating effects of the ring on the wearer. A smaller ratio will give a more rounded shape, which are less likely to have a bow-tie effect. A bow-tie effect occurs when light that enters the stone doesn’t bounce into the middle of the diamond because of the way it’s cut. This means the diamond will not sparkle as much.
Best metal for hidden halo
In terms of the colour of metal that is suited to this style of ring, the choice is entirely with the wearer. For example, a yellow gold oval diamond engagement ring is always a classic choice, however platinum is equally resplendent with a hidden halo ring. As previously mentioned, hidden halo rings can be well suited to mixed metals, as the hidden halo can be set in one metal, while the rest of the ring is made of another.
The only consideration that is important to keep in mind is that it’s always a good idea to use the same metal for both the engagement ring and the wedding ring. So, if you have a platinum engagement ring, it would be best to have a platinum wedding band. This isn’t a matter of aesthetics, as we’re certainly fans of mixed metals. As metals vary in hardness, if you have rings of different hardness beside each other, you run the risk of one wearing the other away. For example, because platinum is harder and denser than white gold, over time it will wear at the white gold, which will then need to be recoated to maintain its colour more frequently.
Wedding Bands
Fortunately for anyone interested in hidden halo engagement rings, they pair well with all styles of wedding band, whether it be a diamond wedding band, engraved, textured, or unadorned. The beautiful simplicity of the ring means it will look wonderful beside something of equal elegant simplicity or something more intricate. If you have a thin band oval engagement ring, it might be nice to pair it with a diamond wedding band, with the diamonds being similar in size to those in the halo. If you have a yellow gold oval diamond engagement ring, this might pair well with a classic plain yellow gold wedding band. The choice is entirely with the wearer, or the one buying the ring! One of the reasons we recommend an oval 1ct diamond ring is that the wedding band will not need to be curved to accommodate the centre stone, however, this is entirely possible should you wish to go for a diamond with greater carat weight.
Hidden halo diamond setting
A hidden halo ring can have one of two settings: rub-over or claw. Claw settings are often more popular as they allow more of the diamond to be seen.
Oval cut diamonds frequently have 4 claws, which come up around the edges of the stone to hold it in place. While these are often preferred, there is always the risk that the claws may come loose and therefore should be checked regularly to ensure there is no loss of the stone.
A rub-over setting, on the other hand, has metal wrapping all the way around the edge of the diamond. It in no way prevents light from entering the stone, rendering it just as sparkly, albeit more secure.
Bespoke Engagement Rings
With all these choices to be made, the best way to ensure you’re getting the perfect hidden halo ring is by working with a bespoke jeweller, who can make bespoke rings, necklaces, earrings or any other piece you might want. Bespoke rings are the perfect way of getting something truly one of a kind that says you really know the person, and you can work with bespoke jewellers to develop an idea or design you might have to create the perfect piece.
Commission a Ring
If you are considering a bespoke hidden halo ring or any other engagement ring and would like to commission one, then please feel free to contact Edward.
All of our engagement rings are made in our East London Studio, where you are more than welcome to visit. While doing so, we can help guide you through the process of choosing the perfect hidden halo engagement ring, from picking the centre stone and halo stones, to the design, and even the metals that will be used. Using a mix of CAD technology and hand painting techniques, we can create an image of your dream ring, before handmaking it. We understand that, under current circumstances, you may not feel comfortable visiting the workshop, so we’re more than happy to discuss designs via zoom. We’ll then use CAD technology and photography to share the process with you, bringing the design and piece to life. One of our beautiful hand-painted designs will be included.
All our bespoke rings are hallmarked in London and costs start from £1,000. The process of making the ring will take between 4-6 weeks, depending on the exact design and the materials used for the piece.
Bi-Annual Ring Check-up
Included with our bespoke jewellers service is a free bi-annual ring check and cleaning service. This will provide the opportunity for us to check on the claw settings to ensure they have not come loose, and make sure the ring is looking brand new. This service is carried out in our East London workshop and usually takes one week to complete.