Anchors are both functional and symbolic. Instantly recognisable to even those with no connection to the sea and no maritime history, they appear on everything from body art to headstones. This being said, anchors are particularly popular and relevant to those with a nautical background and anchor jewellery is a popular sailor gift.
Much like the anchor, cufflinks are intrinsically functional objects and belong to a class of jewellery items that have transitioned from a functional necessity to a decorative extra as garment technology has progressed.
We've taken a deep dive into the symbolism of the anchor and gone some way to shedding light on why this object is still so prevalent today, despite fewer of us being seafarers than ever before.
So where do these items, the anchor and the cufflink, collide? Anchors have been depicted on cufflinks and in jewellery more generally for centuries, though their use skyrocketed from the 16th century onwards. It was then that they were adopted by Lord Howard of Effingham, who was Lord Admiral at the time of the Armada, as his personal insignia.
Usually, anchors in jewellery are flattened. That is, they are depicted in 2D, with the arms and the stock running parallel to each other. This is, of course, contrary to their shape in real life, where the stock and the arms are perpendicular to enable the anchor to function.
The shape of the anchor has been carefully designed over centuries, with many iterations. Anchor cufflinks, however, are symbolic, and these visual representations have attachments, such as cufflink fittings, which take over the actual function of the cufflinks.
Anchor cufflinks can be made from many different materials and set or inlaid with a whole range of precious or semi-precious gemstones.
Oxidized silver cufflinks
Rusty anchor
Silver Anchor Cufflinks
Silver, with its high shine and excellent malleability, has been a popular material for cufflinks and functional jewellery since it was first made. In comparison to other precious metals, such as gold and platinum, silver is more accessible. As such, there is a vast selection of silver anchor cufflinks.
Though trends in jewellery tend to flip-flop between a preference for (yellow) gold and silver, silver cufflinks have always been popular and are a timeless piece for anyone’s collection.
Gold Anchor Cufflinks
The rich, luxurious colour of gold is associated with luxury and style. Some of the finest examples of cufflinks are made from solid gold, sometimes set with gemstones or engraved.
Gold comes in various levels of purity and in the UK 9ct and 18ct gold are the most widely used in jewellery.
Gold-plated Cufflinks
Jewellery made from other metals, such as silver, can be plated in gold, again of different carats and with differing thicknesses. A thicker plating will last longer though. However, for areas of plated jewellery that don’t regularly come into contact with other surfaces, plated is permanent. It’s only in places where the jewellery is in contact with an abrasive surface where plating will come off.
9ct gold
9ct gold is the most commonly used purity of gold by volume in jewellery making and is made up of 375 parts per 1000 of pure gold.
18ct gold
18ct gold is 75% pure gold and is the alloy of choice in fine jewellery. 18ct gold maintains a rich gold colour and is alloyed with metals such as zinc and copper to make it strong and durable enough for jewellery.
Platinum
Of all the precious metals, platinum is probably the least often used in cufflinks. However, this becomes the case less often with very high-end cufflinks. Until very recently, platinum has cost more than gold; at points in the past, it has cost more than twice as much.
Wood
In the past, wood has been used for the stock of the anchor and some jewellery designers have chosen to use this in cufflink design. Fully wooden cufflinks, often laser cut or engraved, are a modern look, though are almost always backed with metal cufflinks fittings, as wood is not a suitable material at the scale of cufflinks for practical reasons.
Cufflinks and diamonds
Like almost any cufflink design, diamonds can be added to anchor cufflinks. Along the stock, arms, or shank is where any stones set will be most visible. There is a size limit with cufflinks, so if stones are to be set on the anchors themselves, they will most likely be small in size and either round or baguette-cut.
Diamond set anchor cufflinks
Custom Anchor Cufflinks
Other gemstones, such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds etc can be set into anchor cufflinks and would make for a truly unique nautical gift. Indeed, choosing a unique gemstone setting is a great way of making your cufflinks a one-off.
Again, as space on cufflinks is somewhat limited, any coloured gemstones will likely be small and either round or baguette-cut.
Modern Cufflinks
In the present day, cufflinks are mostly confined to formal occasions. though some people do still wear cufflinks every day. Custom wedding cufflinks are maybe the most consistent source of demand for cufflinks in 2021. As a personalised, precious, and permanent memento of the occasion, wedding cufflinks are seen as an excellent personalised wedding gift for men. If the groom has a connection with the sea, then anchor cufflinks, possibly with an engraving, would be a meaningful choice.
Though the anchor is steeped in tradition, modern interpretations of the shape keep the design relevant, and mean that these will make an excellent gift for anyone.
Engraving Anchor Cufflinks
Depending on the exact design of the anchor cufflinks, there may be space for engraving. Engraving can be in the form of letters, numbers, or even small symbols or images.
Nautical Gifts
If you have a keen sailor in your life and you’re searching for a nautical gift, then stylish cufflinks with a nod to boating could be a great idea. There are various options when it comes to boating gifts, from functional boat accessories to sailing attire and nautical-themed accessories, but we think it’s hard to match these timeless pieces.